By Sara Samavati, Director of Skincare Solutions and Dr Isaac Flitta Founder & CEO, Totika Health Limited

Sara explains how to transition your skincare routine for spring after a harsh NZ winter or hot summer: what a moisturiser really does, which ingredients matter, and why sunscreen must always be applied as a separate step.

Tōtika MGO 850+ Mānuka Honey, certified and sourced from Bay of Islands hives, Northland New Zealand.

Spring Skin: A Scientist's Guide to Transitioning Your Skincare Routine

Spring does not arrive all at once. In New Zealand and Australia, it tends to sneak in sideways: warm afternoons interrupted by cold southerlies, UV indices that climb before the temperature does, and humidity swings that leave your skin genuinely confused about what season it is. Your skin is not imagining the confusion. It is responding to real, measurable changes in environmental conditions, and if your skincare routine does not adjust accordingly, you will pay for it in dryness, breakouts, sensitivity, or all three simultaneously.

This piece addresses the skincare component of a broader seasonal transition: what is actually happening to your skin as winter ends or summer fades; what a moisturiser genuinely does and what it should or should not contain; and why treating sun protection as a separate, dedicated step is one of the most important decisions you can make for long-term skin health. Not a convenience add-on to your moisturiser. A separate step.

What Winter and Summer Each Do to Your Skin

After a Cold Winter

Cold air holds very little moisture. When you add indoor heating to the equation, you create an environment that actively dehydrates skin through a process called transepidermal water loss (TEWL): water evaporating from the skin surface faster than the body can replace it [1]. The result is a barrier in a defensive crouch: tightened, slowed cell turnover, accumulation of dead surface cells, and often inflamed in ways that feel like dryness but are better understood as early-stage barrier dysfunction [2].

Research published in the Journal of Clinical Medicine confirms that exposure to water and temperature changes significantly impair skin barrier function. Cold air and low humidity together represent a compounded stressor: the stratum corneum (the outermost skin layer) loses its pliability, lipid organisation deteriorates, and the skin's natural moisturising factors, the amino acids and salts that hold water within skin cells, become depleted [3].

By spring, most skin has been in a state of low-grade compromise for months. The signs are subtle, but the barrier science is not.

By the time spring arrives, most people's skin has been in a state of low-grade compromise for months, even if it is not visible on the surface.

After a Hot New Zealand or Australian Summer

A long NZ or Australian summer leaves its mark beneath the surface: accumulated photodamage, elevated sebum, and a barrier that looks resilient but is quietly compromised.

A long, high-UV New Zealand or Australian summer presents the opposite challenge but leaves skin in a similarly compromised state. Chronic UV exposure degrades collagen fibres, triggers oxidative stress through free radical activity, and disrupts the skin's surface microbiome [4]. The skin may appear tanned and resilient, but it is frequently carrying accumulated photodamage: uneven pigmentation forming beneath the surface, subtle barrier thinning, and a backlog of inflammatory signals that will surface as the cooler months arrive if not addressed.

Summer heat also elevates sebum production. When spring cools things slightly, that elevated oil production can persist while the environment shifts, creating the classic early-spring pattern of congestion and breakouts. This has nothing to do with your products and everything to do with the skin adjusting its own internal regulation [5].

What "Moisturiser" Actually Means

The Tōtika Circadian Rhythm Restoration Duo: Essential Day Cream and Rejuvenating Night Cream, formulated with certified MGO 823+ Mānuka Honey and bee propolis for 24-hour barrier support.

The word is used so loosely in consumer skincare that it has become near-meaningless. A precise understanding matters, because the wrong moisturiser at the wrong season can actively work against your skin.

A well-formulated moisturiser does three distinct things, and effective products address all three [6]:

•      Occlude: create a physical barrier on the skin's surface that slows transepidermal water loss. Relevant ingredients include petrolatum, dimethicone, and plant-derived waxes.

•      Humect: draw water from the dermis (and, in humid conditions, from the air) into the epidermis. Relevant ingredients include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, honey-derived sugars, and urea.

•      Emolliate: fill the gaps between skin cells with lipids that soften and repair the barrier structure. Relevant ingredients include ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, plant oils, and manuka honey bioactives.

The research is unambiguous on one point: effective barrier repair requires replenishing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in appropriate ratios; simply adding an occlusive layer on top is not sufficient [2]. A moisturiser that only occludes may ease discomfort temporarily but does nothing to repair the underlying dysfunction. This is the difference between a product that treats symptoms and one that addresses the mechanism.

What to Look For in a Spring Moisturiser

As humidity rises and your skin begins producing more of its own natural oils, a spring moisturiser should be lighter in occlusive weight but retain strong humectant and emollient function. The goal is not to stop moisturising; it is to moisturise intelligently for skin that is waking up rather than skin in survival mode.

Ingredients that work well in a spring transition moisturiser:

• Hyaluronic acid: a humectant capable of binding many times its weight in water, available in multiple molecular weights that work at different skin depths.

• Glycerin: a reliable humectant that functions well across humidity ranges.

• Ceramides: the lipid molecules forming the structural mortar between skin cells, directly repairing the damage accumulated over winter or summer [6].

• Niacinamide: a form of vitamin B3 that supports barrier function, reduces post-inflammatory pigmentation from summer UV exposure, and regulates sebum without over-drying.

• Bioactive manuka honey: a natural humectant and anti-inflammatory active with a well-documented ability to modulate inflammatory cytokines and support barrier repair, discussed further below.

Ingredients to approach with caution during the seasonal transition:

• Synthetic fragrance compounds: even at low concentrations, fragrance is one of the leading causes of contact sensitisation, and skin transitioning between seasons is more reactive than baseline.

• Alcohol-based toners: these disrupt the lipid layer and trigger rebound oil production, compounding the instability of the transition period.

• High-concentration exfoliating acids: Spring is a time to introduce gentle exfoliation progressively, not to apply strong AHAs or BHAs to a barrier already in recovery.

The Case for MGO Manuka Honey in a Spring Moisturiser

Manuka honey from New Zealand's Leptospermum scoparium is not a marketing ingredient. Its primary bioactive compound, methylglyoxal (MGO), confers a measurable, certifiable antibacterial and anti-inflammatory profile that distinguishes it from conventional honey [7].

Raw mānuka honey from Bay of Islands hives. The viscosity you see is a function of its bioactive density; MGO 800 and above is where the therapeutic activity becomes meaningful for skin.

For skin in seasonal transition, MGO manuka honey works on several levels simultaneously. As a humectant, it draws and retains moisture in the epidermis, functioning comparably to hyaluronic acid but with the added dimension of anti-inflammatory activity. Research published in Frontiers in Microbiology has demonstrated that high-grade manuka honey inhibits the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including TNF-alpha, that underlie the redness and sensitivity commonly experienced during seasonal transitions [8]. A 2024 peer-reviewed study in AIMS Microbiology confirmed the broad-spectrum antimicrobial and wound-healing properties of manuka honey, directly relevant for skin emerging from the compromised barrier state of a New Zealand winter or summer [9].

The MGO grade matters. In skincare formulations, an MGO rating of 800 or above delivers meaningful bioactivity. Experts recommend pairing high-grade manuka honey with supporting ingredients, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid, to maximise its benefits [10]. At Totika, our bioactive skincare range uses MGO 823 and MGO 1050 as the foundation of the formulation, not as a token addition to a conventional base.

Practical Steps for a Spring Skincare Transition

Left to right: Magic Serum, Smooth Gentle Foam Cleanser, Essential Day Cream. Three steps. Each ingredient selected at a grade that performs a specific function for skin in seasonal transition.

1. Lighten Your Moisturiser Gradually

Do not switch overnight from a dense winter cream to a lightweight spring lotion. Introduce the lighter formulation every other day for a week, then make the complete transition. The barrier needs time to re-regulate its own oil production before you reduce external lipid support too quickly [5].

2. Introduce Gentle Exfoliation

Winter accumulates dead skin cell build-up. As temperatures warm and humidity rises, your skin wants to turn over; new cells push through and old, dry cells are ready to shed. The answer is not to strip the skin aggressively. It is to support the process gently. A low-concentration lactic acid serum two to three times per week is sufficient. Wait until two weeks into your spring routine before introducing any exfoliant, to ensure the barrier has stabilised from its winter state first.

3. Support Hydration from the Inside Out

Topical hydration works in concert with internal hydration. Skin moisture levels are directly influenced by dietary water intake, essential fatty acid consumption (found in oily fish, flaxseed, and walnuts), and antioxidant intake (found in leafy greens, berries, and New Zealand manuka honey taken internally). In the Bay of Islands spring, when the air warms but before the humidity of summer fully arrives, internal hydration matters more than it will in three months.

4. Reassess Your Cleanser

What worked in winter may strip too aggressively in spring. If your skin feels tight 30 seconds after cleansing, your cleanser is too aggressive for the season. A lighter micellar water or gentle gel formulation will remove increased oil production without triggering the inflammatory rebound that harsh surfactants cause. When skin is stripped, it compensates by producing more oil. When it is respected, it regulates itself [11].

On SPF in Skincare: A Position We Hold Firmly

New Zealand UV does not ask permission. SPF 50 broad-spectrum, applied as a dedicated final step after your skincare, is not a luxury. It is the minimum appropriate response to this light.

At Totika, we do not include SPF in any of our skincare products. This is a considered formulation decision based on the evidence, and I want to explain the reasoning so that you can apply it to every product you evaluate, regardless of brand.

The premise of a combined moisturiser-plus-SPF product sounds logical: fewer steps, one less product. The reality is that these products ask a single formula to perform two fundamentally different functions, skincare and sun protection, and the compromises required to achieve both undermine each of them.

The critical problem is application volume. Sunscreen efficacy is tested at 2 mg per cm squared of skin. This is a specific, meaningful quantity. Research from the University of Liverpool, presented at the British Association of Dermatologists annual conference, found that when applying moisturiser with SPF, people missed 16 per cent of their face on average, compared with 11 per cent when applying standalone sunscreen [12].

More significantly, applying only half the required amount of SPF can reduce actual protection by as much as two-thirds. The SPF stated on a moisturiser label reflects laboratory testing conditions that bear no resemblance to how anyone actually applies a moisturiser.

Australia, which operates some of the strictest sunscreen regulations in the world, classifies moisturisers with SPF as secondary sun-protection products, not primary ones [13]. That classification is precise and worth internalising: a moisturiser with SPF provides some incidental protection when applied correctly, but it cannot substitute for a dedicated sunscreen in conditions of meaningful UV exposure.

There is also a formulation incompatibility worth understanding. Skincare actives, particularly humectants, ceramides, and bioactive compounds like MGO manuka honey, are formulated to penetrate and interact with skin. Sunscreen UV filters are designed to sit on the skin's surface and form a stable, consistent film.

These two functional requirements create genuine tension within a single product: you either compromise the skin-penetrating properties of your actives, or you compromise the surface-stability of your UV filter. The two-in-one promise of many combined products resolves this tension by delivering each function at reduced efficacy.

There is no two-in-one in skincare. There is only partial delivery of each function, marketed as convenience.

Our recommendation is straightforward: apply your skincare first, serum, moisturiser, and eye cream as appropriate. Allow three to five minutes for absorption. Then apply a dedicated broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 as a minimum and SPF 50 preferred in New Zealand and Australian conditions, as the final step before any makeup. The sunscreen is not part of the skincare routine. It is its own step, applied after, with sufficient volume to achieve its stated protection.

This is not a more complicated routine. It is a more honest one.

References

[1] Herrero-Fernandez M, et al. Impact of Water Exposure and Temperature Changes on Skin Barrier Function. J Clin Med. 2022;11(2):298. doi:10.3390/jcm11020298

[2] Rajkumar J, Chandan N, Lio P, Shi V. The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023;36(4):174-185. doi:10.1159/000534136

[3] Uchegbulam I, Danby SG, et al. Effect of seasonal change on the biomechanical and physical properties of the human skin. J Mech Behav Biomed Mater. 2022;127:105055.

[4] Chen J, Liu Y, Zhao Z, Qiu J. Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021;43:495-509. doi:10.1111/ics.12728

[5] Knox S, O'Boyle NM. Skin lipids in health and disease: A review. Chem Phys Lipids. 2021;236:105055.

[6] Rajkumar J, et al. Moisturizers target each of the layers of the skin barrier to maintain homeostasis and facilitate repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023;36(4):174-185.

[7] Dahiya D, Mackin C, Nigam PS. Studies on bioactivities of Manuka honey for natural antibiotic agents related to wound healing. AIMS Microbiology. 2024;10(2):288-310. doi:10.3934/microbiol.2024015

[8] Pasupuleti VR, et al. Honey, Propolis, and Royal Jelly: A Comprehensive Review. J Immunol. 2023;210(Supplement_1):160.15

[9] ScienceDirect. An updated review of functional ingredients of Manuka honey and their value-added innovations. 2023.

[10] Who What Wear. Manuka Honey Skincare: Benefits, Uses, and Best Products. 2025.

[11] Gubba Homestead. How to Transition Your Skincare from Winter to Spring Without Wrecking Your Skin Barrier. 2026.

[12] McCormick AG, et al. Application of SPF moisturisers is inferior to sunscreens in coverage of facial and eyelid regions. PLoS One. 2019;14(4):e0214548. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0214548

[13] Australian Government, Therapeutic Goods Administration. Proposed adoption of the Australian/New Zealand Sunscreen Standard AS/NZS 2604:2021. 2024.

Bay of Islands, Northland. Every jar of Tōtika honey, and every skincare formulation built on it, begins here: in the hive, in the bush, verified from source to shelf.

About the Author

Dr Isaac Flitta, PhD, is the Founder and CEO of Totika Health Limited, based in the Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand. A PhD holder in aerospace materials science and Founding Member FM00007 of the New Zealand Apiculture Industry Body, Dr Flitta combines scientific rigour with over a decade of apicultural practice. The Totika bioactive skincare range is formulated with certified MGO manuka honey from Bay of Islands , developed in collaboration with Sara Samavati (Director of Skincare Solutions, Master's in Animal Husbandry and Organic Skincare Formulation) and Hayden Lee (Registered Pharmacist).